26/27秋冬巴黎時裝週 女裝趨勢報告:材質焦點

2026/05/14
文=YuhsuShih・圖=TPG

皮革應用
皮革應用橫跨長版腰帶大衣、短版飛行員夾克與雷射切割洋裝,涵蓋了高光澤到霧面,帶出洗鍊且俐落的輪廓線條。如Situationist帶有光澤感的皮革圓領衫與圓裙,為運動風單品增添質感。Junya Watanabe充滿剪接線拼接感的皮革洋裝,頗具未來科技感;Burc Akyol則搭配80復古趨勢,以墊肩高領造型搭配垂墜細節,呈現充滿力量又不失溫柔的中性美感。此外,Louis Vuitton則以絎縫的紋理,為皮革外套增加觸覺豐富度與工藝深度。

    Caption Title: Akris, 26AW
    Original File: Akris 26AW 105.jpg
    
  • Akris, 26AW
    Akris, 26AW
  • Akris, 26AW
    Akris, 26AW
  • Akris, 26AW
    Akris, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Balenciaga, 26AW
    Balenciaga, 26AW
  • Burc Akyol, 26AW
    Burc Akyol, 26AW
  • Burc Akyol, 26AW
    Burc Akyol, 26AW
  • Junya Watanabe, 26AW
    Junya Watanabe, 26AW
  • Junya Watanabe, 26AW
    Junya Watanabe, 26AW
  • Junya Watanabe, 26AW
    Junya Watanabe, 26AW
  • Junya Watanabe, 26AW
    Junya Watanabe, 26AW
  • Lanvin, 26AW
    Lanvin, 26AW
  • Lanvin, 26AW
    Lanvin, 26AW
  • Litkovska, 26AW
    Litkovska, 26AW
  • Litkovska, 26AW
    Litkovska, 26AW
  • Louis Vuitton, 26AW
    Louis Vuitton, 26AW
  • Louis Vuitton, 26AW
    Louis Vuitton, 26AW
  • Louis Vuitton, 26AW
    Louis Vuitton, 26AW
  • Situationist, 26AW
    Situationist, 26AW
  • Situationist, 26AW
    Situationist, 26AW
  • Gallery
    25 photos


蕾絲新貌
作為「闇黑浪漫」的核心,蕾絲與蕾絲裝飾告別了過度精緻、柔弱的女性化設計。透過不修邊處理、無內裡結構以及對比配色,賦予較為叛逆的性格魅力。Vaillant、Alexander McQueen和Stella McCartney將蕾絲拼接在細肩帶洋裝/上衣,是從去年開始盛行、可以融入生活穿搭的蕾絲單品首選。Vivienne Westwood透過不同材質的混搭,削弱了蕾絲傳統的性感印象。Gabriela Hearst 則是以細緻白色蕾絲搭配簡單合身的輪廓,呈現出更為當代的波西米亞浪漫氣息。
    Caption Title: Alexander McQueen, 26AW
    Original File: Alexander McQueen 26AW 16.jpg
    
  • Alexander McQueen, 26AW
    Alexander McQueen, 26AW
  • Alexander McQueen, 26AW
    Alexander McQueen, 26AW
  • Alexander McQueen, 26AW
    Alexander McQueen, 26AW
  • Alexander McQueen, 26AW
    Alexander McQueen, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Gabriela Hearst, 26AW
    Gabriela Hearst, 26AW
  • Gabriela Hearst, 26AW
    Gabriela Hearst, 26AW
  • Stella McCrtney, 26AW
    Stella McCrtney, 26AW
  • Stella McCrtney, 26AW
    Stella McCrtney, 26AW
  • Vaillant, 26AW
    Vaillant, 26AW
  • Vaillant, 26AW
    Vaillant, 26AW
  • Vaillant, 26AW
    Vaillant, 26AW
  • Vivienne Westwood, 26AW
    Vivienne Westwood, 26AW
  • Saint Laurent, 26AW
    Saint Laurent, 26AW
  • Gallery
    15 photos


華貴工藝
使用絲絨、緹花、織錦、燒花、掛毯編織和圖案撞色印花,混合質地和細節,打造傳統工藝深度。
Uma Wang和Dries Van Noten以誇大的肩線和上衣分量,加上絨面與緞面的光澤感,呈現出華麗張揚的氣場。緹花織錦用在整件的洋裝或連身褲上,也可彰顯雍容華貴的氣質,如Ungaro的羊腿袖洋裝大氣端莊;Undercover的連身褲則顯得復古俏皮。
    Caption Title: Chanel, 26AW
    Original File: Chanel 26AW 139.jpg
    
  • Chanel, 26AW
    Chanel, 26AW
  • Chanel, 26AW
    Chanel, 26AW
  • Chanel, 26AW
    Chanel, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dries Van Noten, 26AW
    Dries Van Noten, 26AW
  • Dries Van Noten, 26AW
    Dries Van Noten, 26AW
  • Dries Van Noten, 26AW
    Dries Van Noten, 26AW
  • Dries Van Noten, 26AW
    Dries Van Noten, 26AW
  • Dries Van Noten, 26AW
    Dries Van Noten, 26AW
  • Gallery
    12 photos


做舊起皺
通過水洗、做舊與紋理面料,擁抱不完美與歷經時間考驗的美感,取代絕對光鮮亮麗的傳統魅力。層疊的不規則表面、起皺與做舊處理,與性感的廓形相得益彰。
像是Vivienne Westwood宛如繃帶薄紗堆疊的層次感洋裝,散發出一種病嬌般的頹廢性感。Dior和Zimmermann以不收邊的蕾絲流蘇與破碎感的剪邊下擺點綴洋裝,看起來帶有一種恣意的流浪美感與破敗的詩意。另外,如Caroline Hu與Viktor&Rolf局部堆疊的薄紗,展現出一種未完成的手工感與實驗性。
    Caption Title: Dior, 26AW
    Original File: Dior 26AW 114.jpg
    
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Dior, 26AW
    Dior, 26AW
  • Vaillant, 26AW
    Vaillant, 26AW
  • Vaillant, 26AW
    Vaillant, 26AW
  • Vivienne Westwood, 26AW
    Vivienne Westwood, 26AW
  • Gallery
    6 photos

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